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What does it truly mean to stand out?
In today’s landscape of statement clothing, a landscape where designers are left with no choice but to borrow and repeat creativity, all in the name of crafting outfits that make it to local and international headlines.
While this misinterpreted effort for global validation and visibility may seem logical on the surface, beneath the surface, there’s an important and lingering reality of what truly defines a brand’s identity.
In assessing the LFJ SS24 collection, I discovered the answer to that question.
Love From Julez, LFJ for short, is a brand that doesn’t just participate in fashion; it recreates it. Founded in 2020, the clothing label has earned a voice in the creative world, one rooted in fashion as a tool for artistic expression, with a nod to femininity.
I personally refer to this as the kind of fashion that is seen, interpreted, and remembered.
In 2024, the brand launched a Spring/Summer collection, “Under Sea”, the designs lean fully into the brand’s philosophy or identity of “concept-driven house”. Inspired by aquatic life, LFJ moves beyond surface-level motifs; thereby, translating the ocean into living, breathing works of art.
Pleated, shell-like structures, fluid silhouettes, and theatrical accessories come together to create not just garments, but an immersive visual narrative.
While the designers have earned their audience’s flowers, fashion critics like me look beyond the glitz and glamour, the spectacle and artistic “show off”.
We ask the following questions: How effectively does LFJ translate its philosophy into wearable design? Do the exaggerated designs communicate anything, or are they just another manifestation of wardrobe staples?
And more importantly, where does this place LFJ within the broader evolution of contemporary African fashion?
To explore these, I have examined this collection through three key lenses:
Design Language Expression: This assesses structure, silhouette, construction, and everything craftsmanship.
Concept and Creative Interpretation: This evaluates how clearly the “Under Sea” narrative is communicated and how it mirrors the African heritage.
Industry Relevance: This places LFJ within local and global fashion scenes.
That said, I’ll begin this review with what seems like the focal point of attention in this collection.
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Design Language Evaluation
Starting with the first creation, I see an aesthetic heavy on structure. Nothing feels simple about this. The way the fabric is manipulated is quite artistic, giving the silhouette a large and flower-like form. From a distance, I also see the spiral appearance of a shell. This, by extension, automatically interprets the collection’s theme of aquatic life.
While the aesthetics look good to the eye, the dress risks falling apart. The fabric appears to be made from something as lightweight as paper. On top of that, the bodice, especially the top, appears loose, any extra movement by the model may cause a dramatic explosion where the wearer’s chest is exposed and left bare to the merciful or merciless gaze of the audience.
Unlike the spiraling “paperwork” outfit above, this pink silk satin dress holds the body better, in a more feminine and flattering way. The design language isn’t just good but also well communicated. LFJ says it’s rooted in silhouette, and this piece right here captures that identity, especially because it tilts toward a more womanly, realistic, and less dramatic look. Equally important, the functionality in this outfit is commendable. It can be worn literally to any occasion and still turn heads. Contrastingly, the first look risks living like a Barbie doll in real life. Because why not? Who typically wears such a design in functional settings like an office, church, or meetings? Maybe it would pass for a gala night. But apart from these dramatic scenes, the design might just become another idle wardrobe collection.
Concept and Creative Interpretation
I find the next two outfits quite profound. The breathable fabric choice is heavenly, establishing or re-echoing the brand’s theme of “Under Sea”, and message on “structure”.
Whatever this black dress is called, it gives a mysterious sea creature vibe. The black mesh could be interpreted as the depth of the sea, while taking a peek into African heritage.
This level of artistry is represented through the curved mesh across the model’s head, making it look like a gele (headpiece) styled by a magician. I find the narrative too dark, like it’s holding back a secret. By this I mean, aside from the almost invisible gold layering, the garment feels too dark for a typical aquatic atmosphere that is usually lived through movement and light. Plainly put, some shimmering here and there could have fully represented what an aquatic habitation truly looks like.
The concept and creative interpretation of the light-pink drape is another hit on the “under sea” narrative. The combination of materials, like the curly pink mesh for the top and pale blue for the skirt, appears like a jellyfish in clean water. So, what we invariably have here is a strong voice on the water-life theme. And that has been represented by the pink mesh. In fact, it looks like it is the only highlight of the ensemble. In other words, if taken out, the pale blue skirt is just an “ordinary” lightweight material that could pass for a scarf.
Industry Relevance
This is more of a statement piece than an actual dress that would look great in a high-fashion editorial or a museum exhibit. This is LFJ’ way of telling the world that ‘Something good, and something artful can come out of Nigeria’.
But while LFJ shines with a bright future, the designers don’t need to do too much to impress their audience. I know that the brand is trying to be different while maintaining all the “Balenciaga” energy; however, the design appears to be struggling with cohesion. First, there are too many ideas littering everywhere like a popular dump site in Lagos. In one outfit, there is a voluminous green neck coil that looks like it is too heavy for a place as fragile as the neck. As if that’s not enough, there’s also the lavender fan, mint ruffles, and a mesh base for a skirt.
Wear this to a Nigerian party, and you’ll hear, ‘Ah! This is too much na!’ Frankly, this is too much. The entire outfit is even beginning to feel like a collage instead of a unified design. And when compared to a contemporary brand like Andrea Iyamah, which crafts nature-themed pieces, this piece is a “hard sell” because even bold celebrities would find this difficult to wear to an event. Maybe by just removing one or two elements like the stifling neck coil and fan, the look would breathe better and appear more intentional.
Interestingly, the same feedback applies to the last outfit.
Globally, this “wearable art” sits with fashion industry shakers like Iris van Herpen of the Netherlands or Schiaparelli from France. Locally, this is a creation that looks like one of those rare Pinterest outfits. Another highly editorial ensemble for a perfect, unrealistic IG photo shoot, yet cementing the brand’s theory on “sculptured silhouettes” and “modern elegance”.
Again, this can fly for a 30-second runway walk, but it cannot be related to real-life luxury. And for a brand that claims to be all about making women feel empowered and elegant, this design will not just exhaust her time, but also her pockets, and most importantly, her comfort. Arguably, this ensemble appears to be intentionally created for the runway. But the truth is, what is the need of displaying an outfit on the aisle when its reality begins and ends there?
I’m counting on the designers to fix that gap.
As I bring this review to a close, it is important to reiterate salient points that threaten LFJs’ effort to stand out from the crowd. First, the brand has fully captured its thematic representation of the collection. The brand has also done well here, in interpreting its brand’s philosophy on “modern elegance, “” structure, and femininity.
Nonetheless, the designers’ risks adding unnecessary detail to a few ensembles, making it appear like a lack of intentionality. It’s like a paradox: they want to do too much to impress, but such “intentionality” could be misinterpreted, especially because their attention to certain key elements like comfort, functionality, and practicality seems to be missing somewhere.
With all that has been discussed, does the LFJ brand truly embody the unconventional flair? To that, I say, they do. It also demonstrates how timeless the pieces are. The SS24 under sea collection is a tough line-up. Kudos to the team for this creative piece.
By Seun Emmanuel
