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By Seun Emmanuel
The fashion industry is increasingly split between algorithmic trend-chasing and Western design concepts.
Tailoring is no longer a game of creativity and self-expression; it is now about what is in vogue. If a designer’s piece doesn’t appeal to the wider audience, then the outfit is a failure regardless of how sophisticated it is.
I am intrigued to see this play out even amongst African fashion designers. Take, for example, Aisha Ayensu, the creative force behind Christie Brown, who stands out as a designer navigating the tension between trend cycles and a rooted, culturally anchored aesthetic. Her processes comprise deep Ghanaian textile traditions and Western styles that keep her relevant on the global stage.
Recently, I stumbled upon OpulenCe’s 2022 series and was immediately drawn to it. Founded in 2020, the creative designer, Patience Oduro, also uses silhouettes and fabrication techniques that richly mirror Ghanaian heritage to create designs that dare to challenge trends and endure beyond fleeting seasons. The 2022 collection positioned the brand as a manifesto for relevance.
Today, I will be analysing each outfit to examine how effectively the collection negotiates cultural references with its visual execution. The series comprises three designs that follow an earthy colour palette. With a touch of black, the three outfits seem to hold a more volatile cultural tension.
The opening look is dark and gloomy. Not a great way to unveil a series if you ask me. In Ghana, a black dress most commonly symbolises mourning, respect for the dead, and solemnity. At first glance, one may think the piece is a gown. But upon close inspection, the distinction between the blouse and skirt is revealed.
Two cotton fabrics are used, and they both feel liquid against the skin. The textiles are suitable for both warm and cold seasons, and their natural lustre elevates the overall design. The unique neckline serves as an engaging feature. It elevates the wearer’s face and frames the shoulders.
A V-neckline is combined with a choker design. This combination of collar lines is typically used for dinner gowns.
The choker detail anchors the look with a modern edge, drawing the onlookers’ eyes upward. However, it may be uncomfortable for minimalists who like free movement in their outfits. It also limits styling with neckpieces and may not appeal to jewellery lovers. A stronger resolution might involve a black net fabric used for the choker neckline instead. Or a thinner choker neckline, perhaps, a quarter of the current size.
The plunging V-neckline creates openness and modestly flaunts the wearer’s skin. It also adds a feminine softness to the dress’s formal look. This V-cut makes the wearer look elegant and confident. It also creates a contrast between exposure and restraint, adding subtle drama to this piece.
The sleeveless cut in this design allows the arms to take centre stage after the neckline. It creates a clean, uninterrupted look that reveals a decent amount of skin that wouldn’t be considered indecent in any setting or culture.
From the back, discreet zippers secure the blouse and skirt individually, making a clear distinction between the two fabrics. But the design would benefit from an open back cut. This thoughtful cut would introduce a new style concept to this piece by revealing just enough skin to keep admirers’ eyes focused on the wearer’s body.
For the upper bodice, a plain black material is used, while the textile from the waist downward appears to have faint spiral designs. The rear view of this piece appears boring. Patience should have added creative design concepts at the back to engage admirers. For example, an extension of the choker neckline at the back or a gold zipper instead of black.
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These additions will definitely make this dress more appealing.
The skirt is a body-con piece that embraces the hips, tracing the contours before flaring gracefully to the ground.
Large hand-woven pleats are detailed from the hips downwards, elongating the wearer’s legs. The fabric forms curtains around the wearer’s feet, creating a poised look. And although this volume creates an irresistible allure, it may not appeal to a wide audience. A long slit from mid-thigh should have been added to this design. This would add a modern touch to the design and also allow free movement while walking.
This second piece is made from a black elastic cotton fabric. The textile makes the dress resemble body-con outfits commonly worn by the youth. For certain, Patience made this outfit with one audience in mind. And while that might seem like a smart move, it limits OpulenCe from a wider audience. The gown’s long length may also not appeal to the younger generation. The fabric’s elastic texture seems better suited to a shorter silhouette.
The story of this dress is comfort over appearance, and the textile speaks to it. There are days when women just want something light and snug to put on. This design positions itself as the best option for such days. It says: I am the outfit every woman must have in their closet. The ease of wear is the major selling point of this piece.
The wow feature of this dress is the boat neckline, which frames the shoulders beautifully, creating a classic look. This neck cut creates room for proper styling with statement neck pieces and earrings. The sleeveless cut mirrors that of the first piece, but this dress has larger shoulder straps. The shoulder straps are free and able to be styled into an off-shoulder look. This creative concept is called a dual neckline.
At the back, the wearer’s back is exposed with a low neckline. This cut allows for proper aeration during hot seasons while also flaunting the wearer’s back. From the torso down to the hips, the elastic fabric flows in small folds. The ‘folding’ technique transforms organic movement into wearable architecture. It captivates onlookers without being extravagant.
All around, the stitches look well done. The seams are discreetly concealed to maintain a clean look, drawing attention to the fabric rather than its structural detail. However, the joining of the upper bodice and the skirt at the front is visually abrupt. This sharp distinction draws unnecessary attention to the seam.
It is the ‘red flag’ of this design. A colourful embroidery at the waistline might have allowed the fabric to flow more naturally and added life to the colour palette.
The final outfit in this collection takes a different tilt. It is a two-piece made from two different fabrics. One material is a net fabric, while the other is a sequined textile that glitters with every move the wearer makes. The uneven texture and subtle sheen of the sequined fabric create a captivating visual look. The fabric transforms simplicity into sophistication and elegance.
This piece tells a story of a woman torn between following trends or being her true, uncommon self. The sequined fabric represents women being bold about their uniqueness, regardless of how the world may perceive them. And the net material symbolises modern trends common among youth.
The see-through feature of the blouse gives room for optimal styling. Different camisoles’ colours can be worn inside to give different looks, depending on the wearer’s preference. The round neckline adds detail to the shoulders, but it could be choking for women with thicker necks. A square neckline would be more suitable for this piece, allowing free movement and elongating the neck.
Furthermore, the long sleeves flow freely around the arms and accumulate at the wrist. Whilst this may be visually appealing, it is prone to accumulating dirt, which could later contaminate the wearer’s food. A stronger resolution might involve a simple wrist-length design.
The high-waist skirt is the engaging feature of this piece. It stops just before the knees, elongating the wearer’s feet. This contrast in length with the sleeves is a great choice. However, a mid-thigh skirt would have been preferable because most Ghanaian tailors often opt for this length in casual, youthful, or trend-driven lines.
The collection speaks fluently in the language of empowerment and trends. Reminiscent of Chloe Asaam’s restraint, but with a stronger narrative and cultural context, Patience’s tailoring sets a new tone for classic and elegant womenswear.
Beyond aesthetics, each piece in this collection blends contemporary fashion with storytelling and sustainability in ways that make them meaningful.
This collection occupies a premium tier. The outfits in this series are best suited for ateliers and the runway. Each piece offers elevated quality and exceptional designs at a price accessible to discerning consumers. However, there is a lot of room for improvement. Patience must learn to focus on delivering excellence in tailoring and not just trends. Her clients must be her priority if she aims to rise in the global industry ladder.
