•Abuja market thrives, defies economic realities
From Sola Ojo, Abuja
In the heart of the Federal Capital Territory (FCT), Abuja, lies a thriving kilishi market that has become a sensation among locals and visitors alike. It is located in Area 1 Shopping Centre, Garki.
The market is a testament to the resilience and determination of its vendors, who have managed to build a lucrative business over decades against the odds of economic realities.
Kilishi is a popular Northern Nigerian delicacy made from dried and spiced meat, typically beef, usually spiced with a blend of ginger, garlic, onions, peppers and other local spices, making the result crunchy, tasty and preserved.
Vendors said the use of natural local ingredients to prepare Kilishi can make it stay for up to a year if kept away from water.
The process of making Kilishi is a meticulous one, involving the selection of the finest cow parts, hind limbs, slicing and roasting. Forelimbs are said to contain more muscle, thereby not making it suitable for Kilishi.
Those who know the market a few years back would see that it has experienced significant growth over the years, with the number of vendors increasing from 62 to over 300.
Balarabe Sa’adu, a veteran vendor, told Daily Sun: “People buy Kilishi for different reasons. Some buy it for travel, some as souvenirs, and others to complement their fast food.
“We have also noticed that some people are coming here just to taste from one vendor to another. But, we are not bordered because we are selling.
“Let me add that this is the largest Kilishi market in Abuja. From here, we are supplying every part of the country and beyond. I’m not that educated, however, my children must go to school.”
Emir Muhammad has been in the business for four years recalled the days when they operated under umbrellas: “Government came to our rescue by building this shades. It’s very good because Kilishi needs cross ventilation to remain dry and fresh for months.
Badamasi Abdullahi has been selling Kilishi in Area 1 Shopping Complex for about 27 years now: “I came here as a boy. I am from Maradun Local Government, Zamfara State. Today, this is becoming a line business for me and my brothers from the same location in Zamfara.
“Some of us are buying a whole cow depending on our financial strength, others buy parts of the cow. Not every part of a cow is suitable for Kilishi.
“We use cow back legs more to get the best. In this market, we don’t sell fat or muscle because we don’t want to lose trust. Every bit of Kilishi should be enjoyed and stress-free. If the meat is not much, we can finish slicing it in one day and roast it same day especially during dry and harmattan seasons.
“Now, we have brown and red flavour. The brown one has a low pepper concentration, while the red one has a high pepper concentration. However, all are beef.”
Executive member, Kilishi Vendors, Ahmed Muhammad, aka, Dangote Maikilishi, expressed gratitude to God: “We thank God the government likes us and our business. We have been here since we were paying N10, N20. The government has helped us to improve our products and maintain a clean environment.
“We were not like this before. We were open. We contacted government agencies including NAFDAC and FCTA. One of the things we agreed to do was to put our products inside show glass to make it fit for human consumption.
“We don’t have flies perching on our product because we are using natural local ingredients to prepare it. We prevent flies from it from slicing, sun-drying and shelving.
“Before now, we were 62. But because the government saw that we were maintaining the place, they came and expanded this place for us. Now, we are up to 300 apart from shop droppers online and offline.
“It was Tinubu’s daughter (Folasade Tinubu-Ojo), who came to buy Kilishi and saw that we were using planks. She then asked us what we wanted and we told her what we wanted.
“She then took it up with the FCT Minister, Nyesom Wike. That gave birth to the new look we have. We love them and appreciate them very well.”
Mr. Wale Aminu, a buyer said: “Some buy it as they travel from the North to other parts of the country. Nigeria is a country with diversity in geographical setting and local dishes. For example, Kilishi is to the North, crayfish and other seafoods are to the South.
“It is all about give and take. However, all are agriculture and that means agriculture remains our top strength in Nigeria if properly harnessed.”
A pregnant woman who spoke in confidence said: “I eat Kilishi a lot during pregnancy. It helps me to reduce the outpouring of saliva associated with pregnancy.
“When I said a lot, I mean, once I’m feeling uncomfortable, I will just cut a little and put it in my mouth. I think because of the pepper and other local herbs in it, it has a way of saving me from pouring saliva up and down.”
The National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control (NAFDAC) in October 202, revised its current food manufacturing guidelines for food and food products, emphasising the importance of proper hygiene practices to prevent contamination and ensure food safety.
While the guidelines don’t specifically mention Kilishi, they highlight the need for proper handling, storage and preparation of food products to prevent foodborne illnesses, which these vendors captured vividly.