By Christy Anyanwu
One of the pivotal staples in contemporary Nigerian fashion is the Ankara cloth, an exuberant fabric of color and pattern. When discussing textiles and clothing in Nigeria, Ankara immediately springs to mind, embodying the ideal fusion of type, color, and pattern. Over the years, the Nigerian textile scene has undergone a remarkable evolution.
This transformation is deeply rooted in the legacy of our ancestors, who bequeathed us not just the techniques but also the cultural significance of textiles like Damask, Dry Lace, and Adire-Telekom.
Each of these fabrics is meticulously crafted and donned for specific occasions, narrating stories of pride, honor, tradition, and cultural heritage intrinsic to Nigerian history, religion, and socio-cultural life.
Mr. Aliyu Bala and his brand Roots & Runway epitomize this cultural fabric with their masterful use of Ankara in the BROEK Collection 2021. Through his work, Bala showcases the ephemeral nature of fashion. He posits that fashion is a social construct, its essence shaped by societal and cultural values, specific situations, and individual perceptions. Bala’s assertion that textiles like Ankara defy “social death” underlines their versatility and enduring relevance across different times, places, and contexts. His philosophy, “things do not have social lives; rather, social life has things,” encapsulates this sentiment perfectly.
The BROEK Collection is a vibrant homage to Ankara, a fabric synonymous with Nigerian and West African sartorial identity. Woven from cotton and adorned with vivid, ethnic patterns, Ankara is sustainable and culturally significant. The unique wax-resist dyeing technique used to create Ankara patterns involves coating the fabric with a wax-based resin before dyeing, ensuring the creation of intricate and colorful designs.
Since delving into the world of African fashion, I’ve been captivated by the allure of Ankara and Aso Ebi. The prints showcased in Aliyu Bala’s BROEK Collection are nothing short of mesmerising. The endless possibilities of Ankara are showcased not only in clothing but also in accessories like bags, hats, turbans, necklaces, and even shoes. These patterns often extend to earrings, reflecting the boundless creativity inherent in this fabric.
The BROEK Collection offers many options, from stylish pants and jumpsuits to midi skirts and loose, flowing silhouettes. Each piece is a testament to the beauty and versatility of Ankara, standing apart from conventional European styles with a clear emphasis on environmental sustainability. Roots & Runway invites fashion enthusiasts to explore these unique offerings, urging them to embrace the diverse and sustainable world of Ankara fashion without hesitation.
In the kaleidoscopic world of Ankara, Aliyu Bala and Roots & Runway beckon us to reimagine our wardrobes, encouraging a bold departure from the norm. The BROEK Collection is more than a fashion statement; it is a celebration of cultural heritage and a call to sustainable, innovative style.