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Femininity in design, especially in this part of Africa, has always been a subject of contention. While many fashion designers, critics and enthusiasts believe that femininity in fashion is too conservative and modest, others argue that it’s not bold enough.
They believe that women’s fashion doesn’t represent or at least celebrate femininity the way it is supposed to. I, for one, find myself lingering on both sides of the argument. I believe more can be done for femininity while also ensuring modesty remains part of the conversation.
However, I have noticed a climate in the African fashion scene where designers chase each woman’s wear trend in the search for the golden goose. But only to hit a creative wall that gets lost in the marketplace.
Stevioni breaks that pattern with its latest collection, STV/24. I have here a different, and I dare say, a more refreshing set of designs. Each outfit in this collection speaks to femininity with an emphasis on timelessness and storytelling.
Stevioni was founded by Oyenike Lois Ogunlade, a fiercely talented designer who also serves as the brand’s creative director. She founded Stevioni with the belief that simple outfits can also be beautiful and make a huge statement in the market. Oyenike has been committed to simplicity in all her designs since then.
In her latest collection, she blends simplicity and modernity to tell a story of femininity. She combines minimalist ideas and bold colouration to share a fresh perspective on femininity.
Since the overarching theme for this collection is femininity, I will be rating each outfit on a scale of 5 stars. At the end, the overall average will determine whether this collection lives up to the hype. Therefore, I will be judging each outfit based on the relevance of its concept to the marketplace, design functionality and creative depth.
The first outfit is an embellished grid bow mini dress. But in some circles, it is known as a bow cocktail dress. At a glance, this outfit looks like a simple dress. But on a closer look, a lot of small details were factored into the design that produce such a remarkable result. For one, the design construction is not only minimalist but also clear-cut.
Its sculptural cuts create a flow between feminine assertion and gentleness, with sharp silhouettes and soft signatures. This construction serves as an important bridge between storytelling and creativity.
It’s a great thing to see that Oyenike doesn’t surrender to the temptation of bombarding this outfit with excessive features. Instead, the colour choice does much of the heavy lifting in showcasing the central theme of femininity.
Of course, nothing whispers femininity more than the colour pink. And choosing a vibrant hot pink for the first dress in the collection must be intentional. It not only sets the tone for the theme but also captures the essence of femininity without an elaborate display.
The fabric is smooth and structured, giving the outfit a backbone to stand on. Judging by its natural sheen, it’s a blend of satin and crepe, which also offers a stretchy quality. The neckline is as straight as an arrow, with its square-shaped neckline, adorned with thin spaghetti straps for the shoulders. This is why it’s sleeveless.
Additionally, it also has a fitted bodice, which celebrates the female shape in all sizes. But more importantly, the bodice is decorated with a grid pattern using pearl-like beads that glint against the light. This is a magnificent piece of workmanship that proves Oyenike is dedicated to her craft. The bead-made grid pattern also features butterflies that further tell the story of female gentleness and fruitfulness.
Therefore, it’s a reference to womanhood that is a cultural statement that borders on storytelling and refined architecture. Oyenike handles femininity with a delicate balance between original thoughts and her bow-weaving technique. This not only allows for wearable designs but also creates minimalist trends that satisfy a niche in the market.
However, I believe Oyenike had a great chance to balance her theme with some conservative tendencies. But she missed out on that big time. Take, for instance, the hemline, which is mini-length. That means it’s not only above the knee but also mid-thigh. If you have ever pulled down a dress several times, you probably know what I’m talking about.
Therefore, I’m not sure this outfit does enough when it comes to prioritising comfort and functionality. The dress should be at least knee-length with a slight slit at the back to create a sense of comfort.
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Also, the outfit can only be fit for cocktail parties, bachelorette parties or dinner events.
This makes it less multi-dimensional and further shrinks its relevance in the marketplace. So, I will give this outfit a 4.0-star rating. The thematic foundation is solid, but it’s execution is a bit lacking.
Unlike the previous outfit, this one shows the bolder daunting side of femininity, and it strikes a balance in the overall appeal of the collection. This is a strapless floral appliqué mini dress. It uses a blend of yellow, white and green to communicate confidence and authority. One thing that stands out is the silhouette, sharp and square, which perfectly highlights the body profile with a commanding stance.
The cuts are precise and intentional, ensuring a structure that details power in women’s wear. More so, the medium-weight fabric is a tailored crepe with a sturdy structure and a smooth outlook.
Like the first outfit in the collection, it’s sleeveless and also strapless. This offers a brave undertone to the outfit as it imbues female body positivity.
However, the bandeau neckline is immaculately executed as it does a magnificent job of holding the dress. Just like pillars keep a building standing, the neckline does the same for the outfit. This ties in with the bodice, which fitted and was largely embellished with floral appliqué. The applique adds texture and dimension to the entire design, ensuring it reveals that assertive part of femininity without holding back.
What works so well in this outfit so far is its ability to deliver multi-layered storytelling seamlessly. Pun intended. From the floral patterns to the fabric’s shining facade, the story of powerful womanhood shows both sharp edges and blinding shimmer. That offers a 3D perspective on how people experience women’s wear in the African fashion scene.
On the other hand, some shortcomings could have been avoided if better managed. For instance, there are no transitions between the bodice and the hemline. This is boring at best and negligible at worst. While the yellow colour dominates, a flash of the floral design would have been a great way to transition from bodice to hemline.
Also, just like its predecessor, the hemline is way too short. Knee-length would have been modest enough, especially as the hemline is loose and flowy in structure.
A puff of breeze can make the wearer uncomfortable as they scramble to hold down the dress. If it were knee-length, the hemline would be heavier and less likely to be disturbed by the breeze.
All in all, this is a well-conceived design with only a few but significant flaws. In that light, I will give this outfit a 3.0-star rating.
The last outfit in the collection is also perhaps its most divergent, embodying a subtler appearance. It’s a floral-print belted maxi dress. It has a kaftan-style about it that makes one think about relaxation and freedom. I suppose this is the final layer of femininity Oyenike set out to display in her collection. Women can be assertive, just as seen in the second outfit. They can also be complex, as revealed in the first dress. But here, women are shown as soft and gentle. For instance, the pink colour itself is soft, and features a floral motif with soft colours like mauve, cream and grey.
In addition, the fabric is lightweight and flowy, which drapes over the body beautifully. Its features are subtle and diplomatic. Starting with the neckline, it has a shirt-style collar with a V-shaped opening and a self-tie bow at the neck. But it’s the bodice that steals the show with a kimono-style belt at the waist. They offer a relaxing element to the dress, which further enhances softness in the theme. The sleeves are short and loose, ensuring comfort and easy-going function for the wearer.
What truly stands out in this outfit goes beyond its flowy outlook, but its singular structure. The construction of this outfit is so impressive that the silhouette looks solid and refined despite its length. Many designers would have messed with the sculptural element of the dress because it’s a full-length gown.
However, the outfit also has a bland quality to it. The thing about ankle-length dresses like this is that they tend to droop if they are not enhanced. And it’s exactly the result in this case. While the belt looks great, I believe the dress can be livened up with some ruffle detailing to keep it interesting. Also, the dress can benefit from having a slit at the front to add some danger to the outfit.
This is a good dress that positively adds to the never-ending discussions around women’s wear, and with some risk-taking effects, it would have been perfect. Therefore, I have given this dress a 3.5 rating.
Overall, this collection scores an average of a 3.5-star rating, which is an excellent performance for a fashion brand rising to the top of the industry. Oyenike minimalist designs with femininity as their central theme are reminiscent of designs that have been released by Andrea Iyamah over the years, with their resort-style flowy maxi dresses.
I can also make a solid case that Stevioni’s inspiration for its STA/24 collection nibbles delicately on Orange Culture’s line of women’s capsules that oscillate between softness and authoritative feminism.
More than anything, Oyenike’s latest showcase brings a fresh and more detailed perspective to the discussion of femininity in the African fashion industry.
What impresses me more about her collection is how she was able to weave realistic storytelling into her designs. She proves that her brand has what it takes to shape new sensibilities in African couture.
By Seun Emmanuel
