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In the fashion world, designers who make people feel alive are the ones who usually change the industry. Aesthetics, creativity and even visionary thinking are important, but they are only meaningful when they capture the soul. Perhaps, this is Kaffy’s greatest strength, granting the brand a foothold that will last decades in the industry.
This year, the rising star designer will be releasing a new collection. As the founder of Kaffy, Kafayat Damilola Saliu specialises in sustainable women’s wear. She blends colour, movement and structure to create pieces that celebrate modern femininity. Kafayat has made a name for herself through the signature features in her designs. It’s only a matter of time before she takes her place among the all-time greats.
The first outfit in the collection features a two-piece ensemble: a blouse and trousers. The top has a lot of good things going for it. It starts with the bold, vibrant red that grabs attention at first glance. Think of it as the first colour you paint on your canvas to enhance your art. That’s the same thing the red colour does for the blouse. It projects the features of the outfit so that they can never be ignored. The organza-like fabric can also be credited for its supporting act, giving the red its vibrant look through the lightweight, lucid and gentle shiny texture.
It also features a high round neckline with a smooth gathered design with no lapels. This is a brilliant detail. It gives the outfit a tasty look that adds urgency to the overall delivery. The bodice is barely fitted at the waist, offering it a smart, tidy look needed for a corporate setting. But the chest area is wider, and it grants the fabric more room to flow into shape.
The sleeves, on the other hand, are ingenious with their long puffiness. The dramatic ruffle features slide down the arm like ripples on water. That expresses a sort of luxury and a statement of purpose dipped in emotional connection.
The gathered cuffs, which pull in at the wrists, add a rounded shape to both the sleeves and the blouse. With the round, high neckline, leaning the cuffs towards a square shape would have added a bit more depth to the design.
The trousers are not just trousers, but a play on art and functionality. It’s full-length trousers that cover the ankles and heels. High-waisted and free-flowing, the trousers are a sharp contrast to the blouse. Perhaps that sharp contrast is not a new trend per se, but it’s refreshing to see such a design. It has such a straight cut, as if trying to be serious, but the relaxed, tailored finish tells of a child-like playfulness.
The playfulness is further enacted by its colour pattern. The white background sporting red, yellow and black colours can only remind one of watercolour paintings. But then it’s arranged in alternating vertical lines, giving it a structured look.
The blouse with its dramatic sleeves steals the show. The balance the trousers bring cannot be overlooked, especially when judging the overall outfit. Likewise, the trousers strike a balance that is required for modesty in design, blending seriousness and playfulness.
However, the overall design could be more creative. There’s a difference between dramatic and creative. The balance between both elements is slightly lost in this design. For instance, having short slits on the trousers’ hem might have been a creative addition. It would have heightened the outfit’s design without endangering its practicality. But overall, this outfit works well in corporate settings and social functions.
The second outfit, much like the first one, is an ensemble of a blouse and trousers. Both pieces come mainly in a sort of burnt orange that might or might not be mistaken for fading red. Made of polyester, the sheen fabric enhances the colour to a large extent. But perhaps, the outfit’s biggest ally is more likely its coordination rather than its colour.
Take, for instance, the blouse. It has a fitted bodice that seamlessly tailors the body. The neckline is not only round and neat, but with no collars to disrupt the smoothness of the design. It looks professional, but also chic in a way that’s not boring. The sleeves are an explosion in comparison, and probably the soul of the entire design. Of course, they are long and fitted at the upper arms to rhyme with the straightforwardness of the neckline. But they go rogue from the elbows, as though breaking free from their shackles.
The melodramatic flared flounce from the elbows gives that explosive feel that marks a collection designed by Kafayat. The pink colour of that flared flounce emphasises the explosion just to make sure no one misses it. Unlike the blouse in the first outfit, which hooks the beholder with drama from the onset, this is more of a slow burn. The design eases the drama. It creates a balance between minimalist thoughts and exaggerated expression.
The trousers take a lot of inspiration from the first outfit but have their own twist: high-waisted and wide-legged trousers that come in the same colour as their blouse. It’s slightly fitted at the waist, but broadens into a lax, flowy state. This feature validates the flounce on the sleeves. Giving the outfit a fuller look slightly neutralises the dramatic sleeves, thus maintaining the design’s strong coordination.
But the most disappointing feature of the outfit is also the most dominant–the colour. Burnt orange is a cool colour, but doubling down on it with the trousers can feel like pepper spray on the eyes. Looking at the outfit long enough, one can only pray for a break, but it doesn’t come. Even the pink layered into the flounce seems to be swallowed up whole in the volcano of orange. Including a simple colour such as white would have improved the design by so much margin.
Moreso, while the dramatic feel of flounces should be maintained, they could have been executed better. A bit more conservative inclination might have prevented the sleeves from looking like a tool that can alternatively be used as a mop. Overall, the design is sleek and well-coordinated, making it a good choice for corporate wear. It barely works for social function, unless you can guarantee not getting the flounces caught in between closing doors.
The last, but hardly the least, outfit in this collection is a three-piece layer of refreshing design. The colour palette, unlike the previous outfit, is exquisite in class and creativity. Partly modern, partly tradition-inspired, this outfit has excellent features that make it great.
The inner dress, serving as not only a backdrop but also a dominant layer of the design, is a long, flow-like dress. The fabric is satin with its shiny and lightweight quality. With a round neckline and no collars, it embodies simplicities that shouldn’t be taken for granted in a Kaffy design. Long sleeves are normal. But looking closely, the designer couldn’t resist including a bit of ruched and puffed detail at the wrists. Such creative input adds to the depths of the whole design.
The overlaying vest contains vertical stripes of red, yellow, black and navy. These colour combinations look cool, blending smoothly with the red dress underneath. The sleeveless vest compensates well enough with its square, slightly exaggerated shoulders. The fabric, mostly made of cotton, has a gaunt texture which contributes to its stiff and perhaps serious structure. It has two oversized pockets on each lapel that add to the outfit’s functionality. Somehow, the vest is not just a luxury but a vital component of the outfit. That means anyone wearing that dress will feel incomplete without the best, and that shows a brilliant design.
The vest has a parting in the middle, which is held together by a matching belt. Choosing a belt over buttons is refreshing and creative, but it doesn’t lack safety or practicality. It also enhances the waistline from an aesthetic perspective, giving the overall design more substance.
However, the length of the vest poses some problems for the design. There’s hardly a balance between the length of the dress and that of the vest. This creates a saggy effect for the outfit that can only be described as sloppy and unattractive. A shorter vest would have made the design a bit tidier. Even the oversized pockets contribute to the saggy effect as they seem more like melting cheese in a square pan.
Overall, the 2023 collection is a success that should be celebrated by Kaffy and the fashion industry. The dramatic performance in the outfits is an absolute delight to see. But while the designer’s philosophy for drama is well executed and applaudable, infusing more creativity can take signature designs to another level of brilliance.
By Seun Emmanuel
