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By Christy Anyanwu
5KWOMEN Lookbook Evaluation — Koyinsola tests fabric architecture with Mikado, Duchess satin, and Adire in The Structured Poetry Collection. Does the engineering match the wearability?
5KWOMEN | LOOKBOOK REVIEW | JULY 2024 | DESIGNER: KOYINSOLA
“Fashion is about fabric holding space. In Structured Poetry, we wanted to see how textiles can stand, curve, and frame the body without needing heavy surface ornament.” — Koyinsola
THE CONCEPT: ARCHITECTURE WITHOUT THE WEIGHT
Lookbook releases often fall into the trap of looking like static product catalogs, but 5KWOMEN’s The Structured Poetry Collection (July 2024) presents a sharp, visually confident study in garment construction. Built around the tension between rigid fabric engineering and soft feminine draping, designer Koyinsola relies on Mikado, Duchess satin, crepe, and hand-painted Adire to build silhouettes that hold their shape independently.
The collection’s core philosophy centers on restraint. Rather than cluttering garments with excessive embellishment, Koyinsola allows clean lines and structural volume to define presence. From the architectural lines of the Atunse set in heavy Duchess satin to the sculptural shoulders of Mikado dresses, the lookbook focuses on how fabric can act as both material and framework.
THE LOOKBOOK: HIGH DRAMA VS REAL WORLD EASE
The standout shot in the lookbook showcases The Sculpt, a golden Mikado piece constructed with a central basket-draped center bodice. The studio lighting hits the crisp folds of the Mikado, highlighting a pattern-making execution that holds its architectural line without looking boxy or rigid. Similarly, The Movement, a short Mikado dress featuring a gathered waist and layered hem, succeeds in proving that structured fabric can still retain a sense of energetic volume.
However, the lookbook also reveals areas where the structural experiment creates friction. In The Fringe, a full-length crepe gown with dramatic fringe extensions along the sleeves and hem, the sheer weight of the fringe pulls against the relaxed fit of the main garment, causing the shoulder seam to drag downward. Furthermore, while The Contrast introduces a bold two-tone blocking of pink and deep purple in taffeta, the relaxed elongated cut loses the waist definition that makes her Mikado pieces so flattering.
“Structure should give a woman confidence, not make her feel trapped in her outfit.” — Koyinsola
WHAT I LOVED
The basket design on The Sculpt is pure technical brilliance, showing how Mikado can mold and shape a silhouette. The integration of hand-painted Aso Alaro Adire with long fringe details also gives traditional textile craft a high-fashion edge.
WHAT NEEDS WORK
To make this collection fully practical for luxury stockists, Koyinsola needs to balance her heavier fabric choices. The full-length fringe garments require internal waist tape support to prevent the heavy trims from distorting the garment’s neckline, while her taffeta color-blocked pieces would benefit from internal boning to retain their crisp structure on the body.
