By Rita Okoye

 

These days, fashion moves fast. The minute one trend fades, another one takes over, and most brands are quick to follow the noise. Every now and then, a brand shows up and chooses a different path.

Lola Threads, founded in 2019 by Ayobami Ololade Ogunbiyi, might be an emerging name, but it’s already sure of itself. There’s no scrambling to fit in or ride the wave. Instead, the brand stays close to its craft, creating pieces that feel intentional and full of character.

 

Their 2022 collection is proof of that. Today, we’ll be exploring a few of those pieces to ascertain if the designs for this year are a hit or miss.

Well, well, well; what do we have here?

This dress is working a one-shoulder moment, and we appreciate that it’s not the usual clean line. There’s that gathered, ruched detailing pulling the fabric toward the centre, creating a strong focal point. It hugs the body a bit, so there’s definitely some shape happening, but now the thing is: the ruching is relentless. It runs all the way down the bodice, and while that can be great for adding texture and interest, it’s also a little risky.

 

Why? Too much ruching in one area can start to bunch awkwardly, especially if the fit isn’t spot-on. From this angle, the fit seems decent but not flawless. The top looks like it might be slightly loose on the bust, and with this kind of structure, you really want it to cling just right. A little nip in the waist could help define the silhouette more clearly, too. Right now, it’s hugging… but not sculpting. You get it?

Now, that shoulder tie—it’s cute but a bit much when you’re already wearing a bold colour and a ruched body. Honestly? Taking that rope tie out totally would do justice to the dress—at least we’ll know it’s a full-blown asymmetrical neckline outfit.

The silhouette overall is classic. It’s fitted through the bodice, then flowing out past the hips into a soft A-line flare. It flatters and gives a nice contrast between shape and movement. But the transition from the ruched bodice to the skirt is a bit… meh. There’s no clear waist seam or break; it just kind of drops, making it feel slightly disjointed. A defined waistline could have helped create a cleaner hourglass effect.

And the skirt? It’s the only part of the dress that doesn’t need any tweaking. It’s good as is. It’s just a simple flow, giving the top half room to breathe.

With all that said, this is a dress with a lot of potential. The colour is a knockout, the concept is bold, and the silhouette is well… almost there. With just a bit snugger fit in the bodice, sleeve reconsideration, a clean waist transition, and oh—silver sparkles! Adding silver to this deep blue dress would transform the whole thing, taking it from “good red carpet choice” to “best dressed of the night.” Or what do you think?

Oh, wow. Let’s unpack this look from top to bottom.

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So, the first thing that hits you is the optical illusion pattern. It’s giving zebra-in-a-mirror. There’s something hypnotic about it like your eyes don’t know whether to follow the vertical lines or the horizontal ones or just give up and enjoy the ride. It’s unusual, and it’s definitely not for someone who wants to fly under the radar.

Now, about the structure. At first glance, it looks like a shirt dress. Button-down front, stiff collar, elbow-length sleeves—the three shirt combos. It is very covered up and very clean. But then you spot the corset-style lace-up detail at the waist, and boom, suddenly, it’s not just a shirt dress anymore. That corset moment is working hard to break up all that fabric and pull the waist in. It’s doing its job, but it’s subtle, almost too subtle. The contrast between the string colour and the fabric helps a bit, but it’s still getting lost in the print.

And the fact that this is a two-piece set is almost impossible to tell unless you’re really paying attention. The pants are peeking out like they’re being shy, and I get it. The top is so long it’s basically acting like a coat, resulting in the pants just being there, technically, but not doing anything. If we’re going to commit to a two-piece, we’d love to see the trousers make more of an entrance. Maybe a cropped hem? A wider flare? Even just a peek of a bold shoe could wake up the bottom half.

Let’s talk silhouette. It’s straight and long, with minimal shaping, except for that pulled-in waist. It’s clean, yes, but almost a bit boxy. The structure of the fabric keeps it from falling flat, but we can’t help thinking that a small slit, a layered hem, or something to break up the long column would really help give it movement.

As for how it fits, well… it looks good up top. Shoulders sit right, sleeves give room to breathe, and the waist cinch is mild but effective. The length of the top, or should we say dress, though, is where we’d consider tweaking. Right now, it cuts off at this awkward just-above-the-ankle spot. If it went all the way to the floor or hit just below the knee, then the whole outfit would feel more balanced.

Looking at this from the big picture, this look is cool. It’s got a cerebral, fashion-editor vibe. But it’s caught in between being sculptural and being soft. If the designer pushed a little harder in sharper tailoring or more visible layering, it could be a really special design. Right now, it feels like it’s almost there.

First reaction: bold and fashionable up top; all business below. Honestly, that contrast is kind of the whole point here.

Let’s start with the blouse. The print is electric, as though a painter took a brush and just started slashing white over blue. The puff sleeves add drama and volume at the shoulders, which is great for creating a strong upper silhouette. But they’re also very pronounced, as though the sleeves are taking up space and having conversations.

Now, the V-neckline is doing a nice job of softening all that volume. It helps keep the top from swallowing the frame completely, and it breaks up the print just enough. So far, so good.

But here’s where things get tricky: that flap-like detail. We’ve got this flat panel that drops from the waist down, and it’s very structured—kind of apron-esque, actually. It feels like it’s trying to be a skirt and a belt at the same time, and we’re not totally convinced it’s succeeding at either. It flattens the waist visually, which can be great for a clean shape, but because it doesn’t hug or flare much, it ends up just looking like an outfit intermission.

And then we move to the pants. It’s simple, with classic tailoring. There’s nothing wrong here; they’re doing their job and balancing all the drama above. But paired with that rigid waist panel, they feel a little stiff. We’d suggest a slightly more playful pair of pants, and maybe a wide-leg cut might help keep the energy more cohesive.

Fit-wise, the top half is solid. The puff sleeves land at a good length, so they’re not swallowing the arms, and the V-neck keeps it open and flattering. But the waist zone is where things get muddy. That peplum panel needs either more intention or, better still, a complete take-out.

So, final thoughts: this look has ambition. It’s trying to mix structure, print, volume, and fitting, and it almost pulls it off. Almost. If the middle piece had a clearer purpose, this would’ve been a knockout. Right now, it feels like the top and bottom are in two different conversations, and the outfit needs a better moderator.

But hey, props for going bold. Safe is boring. This is not that.

Ultimately, something is refreshing about this collection. You can tell that Lola’s Thread designed with intention, character, and, most importantly, with a point of view. Now, is everything perfect? No. Some fits could be sharpened. Some design choices feel like they’re still searching for their final form. But that’s okay.

What you see is a design language that’s starting to form: architectural and sometimes a little unconventional, but never lazy and never generic. Keep an eye on Lola’s Thread. If they keep refining that voice, they won’t just be ‘emerging’; they’ll be undeniable.